Since the edges of most quilts are straight, the binding doesn’t need to be cut on the bias. This is extremely helpful if you’re project has curved edges. Now that you know how wide the binding is going to be as well as the total length of the binding, you need to decide if you’re going to cut the strips along a grain line or the bias.Ĭutting on the bias (a 45-degree angle to the selvages) results in fabric strips that are stretchy. If you don’t have an extra 20 inches of the fabric you want to use, you can add as little as 12 inches to the perimeter for the extra, but don’t go less than that. There will be some binding leftover when you are done. The extra 20 inches will ensure you have enough binding to go around the corners and overlap at the ends where you start and stop. Measure each side of the quilt and add them up.The total length of the binding will be determined by the perimeter of the quilt top plus a little extra. If it’s very thick, add 1/4-inch to whichever width you decide on to accommodate the batting. In addition to the size of the binding on the front of the quilt, keep in mind the thickness of the batting you’re using. Cut the binding strips 2 1/2 inches wide, because you want the binding to easily pull over the back.Cut the binding strips 2 1/4 inches wide, because you want the attached binding to be slightly wider on the back than on the front.Cut the binding strips 2 inches wide, because you want the attached binding to be the same width on the front as it is on the back.

Here are so some things to consider when deciding on the binding width along with corresponding measurements:

Most double-fold binding is cut in widths from 2 to 2 1/2 inches. On the back of the quilt, the finished binding is either the same width as the front or a little wider. Most finished bindings are approximately 1/4-inch wide on the front of the quilt. To determine the width of the binding strips, you need to consider the finished look you’re going for. Thread, needles, pins/clips, tape measure, scissors, iron, iron board, and a marking utensil are other supplies you need. You’ll also need a 1/4″ presser foot or another way to make sure the seam allowance is 1/4-inch. It is helpful if you have in your sewing area enough space for some, if not all, of the quilt to rest and not hang off as it is moving through the sewing machine. The best tools for cutting fabric for binding and preparing the quilt top areĪ regular sewing machine can be used to sew a binding on a quilt. Cutting SuppliesĪs with any project having the right tools for the task at hand makes the process easier. Keep in mind that a darker color fabric will define the edge of the quilt better than a lighter color fabric. It can be a solid color or one with a print or geometric design like strips. The color you choose for the binding is up to you. The fabric you select should be similar to the weight and quality of the fabric used in the quilt. This allows you to select fabric that will add or enhance the visual appeal of the overall quilt design. While double-fold binding can be purchased, you can make your own. Tools and Supplies to Make Double-Fold Binding This means you don’t need to press under any long edges like you would with single-fold binding. In my opinion, double-fold binding is easier to work with because the fabric strips are folded in half with the raw edges together. Single-fold binding has one layer of fabric covering the quilt’s raw edges.ĭouble-fold binding has two layers of fabric covering the raw edges of the quilt.īecause it consists of two layers, double-fold binding is recommended for quilts that will get a lot of use. The main job of the binding is to cover and protect the edges of the quilt. Binding is a strip of fabric attached to the front and back of a quilt that covers the raw edges

Double fold bias tape